updated assembly instructions, simpler without posts

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>

Makefile

@@ -1,15 +1,19 @@
-SRC_FILES := $(wildcard ./src/*.scad)
-SRC_FILES := $(filter-out ./src/all-together-demo.scad, $(SRC_FILES))
-SRC_FILES := $(filter-out ./src/blown-up-demo.scad, $(SRC_FILES))
-SRC_FILES := $(filter-out ./src/components.scad, $(SRC_FILES))
-SRC_FILES := $(filter-out ./src/roundedcube.scad, $(SRC_FILES))
-all: $(SRC_FILES)
-	mkdir -p ./build
-	for file in $^ ; do \
-		openscad -o $${file}.stl $${file} ; \
-		mv $${file}.stl ./build/ ; \
-	done
-	zip ./build/buildable-stick-system-`git describe --dirty`-stls.zip ./build/*
+EXCLUDES = blown-up-demo components parameters
+OBJECTS := $(filter-out $(EXCLUDES),$(patsubst src/%.scad,%,$(wildcard src/*.scad)))
+dir_guard=@mkdir -p ./build
+
+all:	$(OBJECTS)
+	$(dir_guard)
+	mkdir -p ./build/docs
+	cp ./docs/README-objects.md ./build/README.md
+	cp ./docs/assembly-and-tips.md ./build/docs/assembly-and-tips.md
+	cp ./docs/printing-and-materials.md ./build/docs/printing-and-materials.md
+	cp ./LICENSE ./build/LICENSE
+	pushd ./build; zip ./buildable-stick-system-`git describe --dirty`-stls.zip . -r; popd
+
+$(OBJECTS):
+	$(dir_guard)
+	openscad -o build/$@.stl src/$@.scad
 
 clean:
 	rm -rf ./build

README.md

@@ -2,11 +2,16 @@
 
 Files for 3D printing an arcade stick.
 
+Have you ever wanted to conjure your own arcade stick out of the ether (well, plastic), or to prototype a new layout or
+design before sending it to a custom builder? Do you just love having your space filled with arcade stick enclosures,
+because you keep making different variants, colorways, and so on? Or do you simply want a good stick on the cheap, and
+know someone or a library with a 3D printer? The Buildable Stick System may be the project for you!
+
 ![An example of stick components displayed in OpenSCAD](docs/blown-up-demo.png)
 
 [OpenSCAD-based illustration of how the components for an overhang panel-based stick fit together.]
 
-![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v3.1.jpg)
+![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v4.2.jpg)
 
 [Photo of a completed inset panel-based stick.]
 
@@ -27,14 +32,14 @@ starting with an existing object and constructing what you'd like with new or ex
 There are a lot of parts to pick from, but there are some structural variants to pay attention to; here's some help
 about when/how to use specific parts:
 
-* `foo-panel-inset`s --- these fit flush into a frame, creating a closed box enclosure.
-* `foo-panel-overhang`s --- these have a tray that fits into a frame with the actual face extending beyond the frame,
+* `panel-inset` --- these fit flush into a frame, creating a closed box enclosure.
+* `panel-overhang` --- these have a tray that fits into a frame with the actual face extending beyond the frame,
   creating an ice cream sandwich enclosure.
     * These also yield a bit more space inside the box, for tall levers or whatever.
-* `frame`s (non-pieces) --- these create the box of the enclosure, as one part. These can be hard to print well ---
+* `frame` (non-pieces) --- these create the box of the enclosure, as one part. These can be hard to print well ---
   shrinkage forces tend to curl up the corners no matter what you do, and some points need supports --- but if you don't
   care about that because you're printing an ice cream sandwich, they are simpler than...
-* `frame-piece`s --- these break up the frame box into four faces, and are held together by friction fit and the hex
+* `frame-piece` --- these break up the frame box into four faces, and are held together by friction fit and the hex
   bolts. This is more stable than you might expect, but it does introduce some variability in the overall sturdiness of
   the enclosure compared with the frame as one box piece.
     * The `interconnect` replaces the need to bolt multiple frames together.
@@ -42,12 +47,8 @@ about when/how to use specific parts:
 ## Printing
 
 These items all fit on a 256mm^2 print bed; I use a Bambu Lab P1P based on what I've learned from the
-OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy for my purposes, though the slicer has done a couple
-weird things, in my experience.
-
-My preferred settings are 3 wall loops with 20% gyroid sparse infill. This gives the models a bit more weight and
-stability, but something like 2 wall loops, 15% grid sparse infill is fine and does not lead to a weak enclosure. The
-costs below have been made against my settings.
+OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy, but see `docs/materials-and-printing.md` for more
+thoughts and settings based on my tinkering with prints.
 
 ## Assembling
 
@@ -78,7 +79,7 @@ What you'll need beyond these objects:
 ## Rough Costs
 
 This is a rough estimate of the cost to produce one of these sticks, assuming a usual 2-frame design and layout.
-Filament masses from Bambu Studio estimates, using Bambu PLA Basic.
+Filament masses from Bambu Studio estimates, using Bambu PLA Basic, 20% gyroid infill and 3 wall loops.
 
 * Left and right frame: **$10.42 USD** (208.50g each, as of 2024-02-22)
 * Left and right (inset) top panels: **~$6.40 USD** (~128g each, as of 2024-02-22)
@@ -92,11 +93,11 @@ Filament masses from Bambu Studio estimates, using Bambu PLA Basic.
   of 2023-09-12)
 * 4 M3 flange nuts to connect Neutrik D plates to frames: **$0.34 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $8.50,
   as of 2023-09-12)
-* 8 45mm M4 spacers to connect panels to frames: **$2.40 USD** (you can get a pack of 10 on AliExpress for $3, as of
+* 8 45mm M4 standoffs to connect panels to frames: **$2.40 USD** (you can get a pack of 10 on AliExpress for $3, as of
   2023-09-12)
     * You could 3D print these too, but you're probably better off with brass ones as they give some weight to the
       stick anyway
-    * You can also use a shorter length with longer bolts, or combine multiple spacers, if either of those yield better
+    * You can also use a shorter length with longer bolts, or combine multiple standoffs, if either of those yield better
       prices
 * 8 16mm M4 bolts to connect top plates to frames: **$0.72 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of
 * 8 12mm M4 bolts to connect bottom plates to frames: **$0.72 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of
@@ -133,14 +134,7 @@ to hang out and discuss issues and features and whatnot.
 
 ## Attribution
 
-Inspired by the incredible work of [TheTrain](https://github.com/TheTrainGoes) on the [OpenStickCommunity Fightstick
-Case](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/Fightstick%20Case), itself based on the incredible work
-by [Dash n'Mash](https://twitter.com/Dash_xx_Mash?s=20). Original work Copyright 2023 TheTrain, [licensed under CC BY
-4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
-
-Made possible by the amazing efforts of [slagcoin](https://www.slagcoin.com/).
-
-## Author and Licensing
+### Author and Licensing
 
 Written by and copyright Brian S. Stephan (<bss@incorporeal.org>).
 
@@ -153,3 +147,23 @@ warranty of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the GNU Gen
 
 You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License along with the Buildable Stick System. If not, see
 <https://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
+
+### Lineage
+
+Inspired by the incredible work of [TheTrain](https://github.com/TheTrainGoes) on the [OpenStickCommunity Fightstick
+Case](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/Fightstick%20Case), itself based on the incredible work
+by [Dash n'Mash](https://twitter.com/Dash_xx_Mash?s=20). Original work Copyright 2023 TheTrain, [licensed under CC BY
+4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
+
+Made possible by the amazing efforts of [slagcoin](https://www.slagcoin.com/).
+
+### Distributing BSS Sticks
+
+Under the terms of the GPLv3, you must inform the receiver of the "object code" of their rights under the GPLv3. This is
+a bit of a gray area for physical objects, but likely applies to distribution of modified or unmodified STL, STEP, etc.
+files at a minimum. The easiest way to satisfy the GPLv3 in either situation is to provide a link to the source code
+(either the unmodified mainline project, or your copy, with modifications listed in a "prominent notice"); something
+like the below should suffice in either electronic or printed form:
+
+> This arcade stick is part of the Buildable Stick System, version X.Y.Z; the source code to this program is available
+> under the terms of the GNU General Public License, at [LINK].

docs/README-objects.md

@@ -0,0 +1,65 @@
+# The Buildable Stick System
+
+Files for 3D printing an arcade stick.
+
+## Objects
+
+The following notes document the objects in the Buildable Stick System and how you can use them:
+
+* `bottom-panel-inset`: a simple solid panel that fits into the bottom of a frame box.
+* `bottom-panel-overhang-*`: solid panels whose base fits into the bottom of a frame box, but have a longer sheet that
+  extends beyond the frame, creating a sandwich kind of look; the various forms hang over more or less of the frame,
+  expecting it will be connected to other frames.
+* `frame-{left,middle,right,solo}`: the core frame of the stick, these are complete boxes; since they are long and
+  narrow, and need supports to print the space for the insets, these may be difficult to print nicely.
+* `frame-piece-*`: the core frame broken up by individual faces, which are easier to print and essentially just as
+  sturdy.
+* `frame-piece-*-extended*`: frame pieces that have been stretched out beyond the normal frame dimensions in order to
+  make a nice bevel on the sides and/or bottom; this, interestingly, tends to make the stick look a bit thinner than if
+  it was just a simple box.
+* `misc-decorative-plate-*`: things you can print to snazz up face buttons mounting, auxillary button points, etc..
+* `misc-dustwasher-*`: simple dustwashers for levers.
+* `misc-lever-mount-*`: lever mounts of various shapes and depths to get the desired lever height when mounting a lever
+  to a panel (with the appropriate cutouts).
+* `misc-neutrik-*`: like the decorative plates, but these are a bit more necessary by their design.
+* `misc-rocker-*`: rocker SPDT switches don't have mounting holes, this allows you to attach them to the frame.
+* `top-panel-inset-*`: various lever and/or button layouts for using as the face(s) of a stick.
+* `top-panel-overhang-`: same idea as the inset top panels, but overhung over the frame to make the sandwich look; these
+  also leave a bit more space inside the frame, which might accommodate a taller lever.
+
+Feel free to request or contribute to more objects, see the links to Git repos below.
+
+## Printing and Assembling
+
+Additional documentation regarding printing the objects and assembling the stick are available in
+`docs/printing-and-materials.md` and `docs/assembly-and-tips.md`, respectively.
+
+## Author and Licensing
+
+Written by and copyright Brian S. Stephan (<bss@incorporeal.org>).
+
+These arcade stick parts are from the Buildable Stick System; the source code to this program is available under the
+terms of the GNU General Public License, at:
+
+* <https://github.com/bsstephan/buildable-stick-system>, or
+* <https://git.incorporeal.org/bss/buildable-stick-system>
+
+See the tags/releases for the version of the source code corresponding to the STLs you received.
+
+The Buildable Stick System is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General
+Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or (at your option) any
+later version.
+
+The Buildable Stick System is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the
+implied warranty of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the GNU General Public License for more
+details.
+
+You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License along with the Buildable Stick System. If not, see
+<https://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
+
+## Lineage
+
+Inspired by the incredible work of [TheTrain](https://github.com/TheTrainGoes) on the [OpenStickCommunity Fightstick
+Case](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/Fightstick%20Case), itself based on the incredible work
+by [Dash n'Mash](https://twitter.com/Dash_xx_Mash?s=20). Original work Copyright 2023 TheTrain, [licensed under CC BY
+4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).

docs/assembly-and-tips.md

@@ -0,0 +1,52 @@
+# Assembly and Tips
+
+Just some miscellaneous notes for any dear reader, or more likely, my own forgetful self.
+
+## Putting a BSS Stick Together
+
+Assembly of a stick is pretty straightforward, but there are some choices that can make it easier or harder. The
+following is the most consistent way I've found to put one together. This is assuming a v4.2 or beyond stick, with two
+panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
+
+1. Prepare the frame top pieces --- `frame-piece-top-left-or-right`: this is your best shot to get auxillary buttons,
+   panel connectors, and the like installed, so do it now, and give them a good tighten. You shouldn't need to adjust
+   these again, so finish their installation while the pieces are free.
+    1. This of course includes decorative plates --- e.g. `misc-decorative-plate-aux-control-three-button-cluster` ---
+       you may choose to use. These are held to the top pieces by the buttons or component mounting screws.
+2. Start the top panels --- `top-panel-(inset|overhang)-*`: you want both to get the components installed now
+   when it's easy, and to make sure that the overall assembly works with your components, so again get your buttons,
+   lever, etc., in place. You can secure them at this point.
+    1. If you are using a button decorative plate that spans two panels --- e.g.
+       `src/misc-decorative-plate-dir_arc-plus-w-30mm-and-sega-2p-plus-one` --- take care to align the two panels as
+       tightly as possible, and accurately, as they will be hard to adjust once everything is secured and in the frame.
+    2. If using a lever, don't forget the lever mount spacer --- `src/misc-lever-mount-sanwa-seimitsu` --- if you want
+       it, and tighten those mounting bolts now as well.
+3. Create the frame box by combining your `frame-piece-*` parts together. This will be relatively stable just via
+   friction fit.
+4. Rest the frame top-up on a desk, and put the standoffs through the holes. This will probably be tight, and you may
+   even need a rubber mallet or similar to drive the standoffs through the holes.
+5. Insert the top panels into the frame.
+6. Insert the bolts for the top panels, make any last adjustments, and tighten them.
+7. At this point you have an open box with access to all your components. Do all of your wiring.
+    1. Tighten the buttons and etc. if you didn't in step 2.
+8. Insert the bottom panels into the frame.
+9. Insert the bottom bolts for the bottom panels, and tighten them.
+
+In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
+to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.
+
+## Removing Inset Panels
+
+As of v4.1 (or in v3), the top and bottom inset panels both insert into the frame, inside the frame "lip", meaning that
+when everything is put together, they create a flush surface (more or less). This can make them hard to get out, as you
+can't grab anything to get any leverage, and especially with v4.1, the plastic posts to aid the friction fit make it
+even harder to muscle out --- in fact, even if you could get an edge and start yanking, you'd probably just break some
+of the plastic.
+
+You can instead use the reverse side and the hex standoffs to push a panel out, as so:
+
+1. Loosen, or completely remove, the hex bolts for the panel you would like to remove.
+2. Flip the stick over, and remove the hex bolts on the opposite side.
+3. Screw in longer bolts, or anything else that'll fit into the hole without going flush against the panel.
+4. Push the long bolts in, thus pushing the standoffs, thus pushing the desired panel out from within.
+5. You may have to even get a mallet and tap on a bolt, occasionally, as everything can be *pretty* tight.

docs/materials.md

@@ -1,25 +0,0 @@
-# Materials
-
-bss's random thoughts and notes on 3D printing materials.
-
-## Bambu Lab PLA
-
-### Basic
-
-* In general, nice texture, but under direct light, you can see a bit of the infill pattern through the walls. Not super
-  distracting, but it's there.
-
-#### White
-
-* Walls are practically translucent, you can almost always see the infill. Do not use for major components.
-* Looks perfectly good for thin things like the Neutrik plates, decorative pieces, that kind of thing.
-
-### Matte
-
-* I don't like the texture as much, but they do produce nice non-primary color colorways, and you don't see the infill.
-* Seems like their plastic treatment leaves some plate residue, so be better about cleaning it or you'll get ghosts.
-
-## Hatchbox PLA
-
-* **Blue:** very blue. Wife likes it.
-* **White:** more opaque than the Bambu PLA mentioned above, makes a pretty decent (still slightly translucent) frame.

docs/printing-and-materials.md

@@ -0,0 +1,58 @@
+# Printing and Materials
+
+bss's random thoughts and notes on the actual printing of the Buildable Stick System.
+
+## Printing Settings
+
+My preferred settings are 3 wall loops with 20% gyroid sparse infill. This gives the models a bit more weight and
+strength against bowing forces, but something more default, like 2 wall loops, 15% grid sparse infill, is fine and does
+not lead to a weak enclosure.
+
+### Working With Flatness
+
+A lot of the pieces are long and flat, so I recommend really dialing in your printer settings. The frame pieces make
+corner curling of the frame less of a problem, but you may still get it on the panels and the beveled frame pieces.
+
+#### Bottom Layer Notes
+
+Considering the visible layer (usually, the bottom layer) pattern is ideal. Monotonic prints fast but creates long,
+uniform lines that create reflection patterns on long, flat surfaces. This can be especially distracting for the top
+panels and their decorative plates, since they're what you're looking at 90% of the time, and the holes break up a
+perfect pattern, making the long lines stand out even more.
+
+* **Top panels:** using a non-uniform pattern reduces if not eliminates the problem of the surface catching the light,
+  but for some patterns, it may come at the expense of time. Other patterns may improve beyond monotonic, but hilbert
+  curve seems to be the gold standard.
+* **Circle-centric decorative plates:** don't use complex patterns like Archimedean chords on decorative plates, as they
+  seem to have issues with filling curves and you still want to try to maximize contact with walls. Concentric is great
+  here if you dial it in.
+
+The concentric pattern is a good default and prints awesome parts, with the only exception being the top panels, which
+benefit from using a Hilbert curve initial layer pattern instead of concentric.
+
+## Materials
+
+Some notes on PLA brands, usages, etc.
+
+### Bambu Lab PLA
+
+#### Basic
+
+* In general, nice texture, but under direct light, you can see a bit of the infill pattern through the walls. Not super
+  distracting, but it's there.
+
+##### White
+
+* Walls are practically translucent, you can almost always see the infill. 3 wall loops and a varying infill pattern
+  definitely help here.
+* Looks perfectly good for thin things like the Neutrik plates, decorative pieces, that kind of thing.
+
+#### Matte
+
+* I don't like the texture as much, but they do produce nice non-primary color colorways, and you don't see the infill.
+* Seems like their plastic treatment leaves some plate residue, so be better about cleaning it or you'll get ghosts.
+
+### Hatchbox PLA
+
+* **Blue:** very blue. Wife likes it.
+* **White:** more opaque than the Bambu PLA mentioned above, makes a pretty decent (still slightly translucent) frame.

src/components.scad

@@ -164,32 +164,7 @@ module levermountcountersinks() {
 }
 
 module base_panel() {
-	difference() {
-		union() {
 	cube([panel_x, panel_y, panel_z], center=true);
-			// add posts that sink into the frame, just to give
-			// a somewhat more sturdy/tight connection
-			translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-				scale([1.5, 1.5, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-			translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-				scale([1.5, 1.5, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-			translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-				scale([1.5, 1.5, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-			translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-				scale([1.5, 1.5, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		}
-		// the posts mentioned above need space for the actual hex bolts
-		// used in connecting to the frame
-		translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-			scale([1, 1, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-			scale([1, 1, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-			scale([1, 1, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, -panel_z])
-			scale([1, 1, 0.1]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-	}
-
 }
 
 module base_bottom_panel() {
@@ -360,16 +335,6 @@ module frame() {
 		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, 0]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
 		translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, 0]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
 		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, 0]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-
-		// slightly larger holes than the posts in the base_panel
-		translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, frame_z/2-panel_z-5])
-			scale([1.55, 1.55, 0.2]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, panel_to_frame_point_y, frame_z/2-panel_z-5])
-			scale([1.55, 1.55, 0.2]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, frame_z/2-panel_z-5])
-			scale([1.55, 1.55, 0.2]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
-		translate([-panel_to_frame_point_x, -panel_to_frame_point_y, frame_z/2-panel_z-5])
-			scale([1.55, 1.55, 0.2]) frame_hex_bolt_hole();
 	}
 }
 

src/frame-piece-bottom-left-or-right-extended.scad

@@ -0,0 +1,29 @@
+/*
+ * SPDX-FileCopyrightText: © 2024 Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
+ * SPDX-License-Identifier: GPL-3.0-or-later
+ */
+
+include <parameters.scad>
+include <components.scad>
+use <frame-piece-bottom-left-or-right.scad>
+
+module bottom_piece_wall() {
+	// get a slice of the piece, to use it in extruding
+	projection(cut=true) rotate([-90, 0, 0]) translate([0, frame_y/2-frame_bevel_height, 0])
+		bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece();
+}
+
+module bottom_piece_extension() {
+	// combine the original with a shrunken piece to "pull" the wall out
+	hull() {
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_extension_y) scale([1, 0.5, 1]) bottom_piece_wall();
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_bevel_height) bottom_piece_wall();
+	}
+}
+
+module extended_bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece() {
+	bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece();
+	translate([0, -frame_y/2+frame_bevel_height*2, 0]) rotate([90, 0, 0]) bottom_piece_extension();
+}
+
+extended_bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece();

src/frame-piece-side-extended-to-bottom.scad

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+/*
+ * SPDX-FileCopyrightText: © 2024 Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
+ * SPDX-License-Identifier: GPL-3.0-or-later
+ */
+
+include <parameters.scad>
+include <components.scad>
+use <frame-piece-bottom-left-or-right-extended.scad>
+use <frame-piece-side.scad>
+
+module side_and_bottom_frame_piece_wall() {
+	// get a slice of the pieces, to use it in extruding
+	projection(cut=true) rotate([0, 90, 0]) translate([frame_x/2-frame_bevel_height, 0, 0])
+		side_frame_piece();
+	projection(cut=true) translate([0, -frame_y/2+frame_wall, 0]) rotate([90, 90, 0]) bottom_piece_extension();
+}
+
+module side_and_bottom_frame_piece_extension() {
+	// combine the original with a shrunken piece to "pull" the wall out
+	hull() {
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_extension_y) scale([0.5, 0.90, 1]) side_and_bottom_frame_piece_wall();
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_bevel_height) side_and_bottom_frame_piece_wall();
+	}
+}
+
+module extra_extended_left_or_right_frame_piece() {
+	difference() {
+		side_frame_piece();
+		// chop off the old edge which is getting replaced with the extension
+		translate([-frame_x/2+frame_bevel_height/2, 0, 0]) cube([frame_bevel_height, frame_y, frame_z], center=true);
+	}
+	translate([-frame_x/2+frame_bevel_height*2, 0, 0]) rotate([0, -90, 0]) side_and_bottom_frame_piece_extension();
+}
+
+extra_extended_left_or_right_frame_piece();

src/frame-piece-side-extended.scad

@@ -0,0 +1,33 @@
+/*
+ * SPDX-FileCopyrightText: © 2024 Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
+ * SPDX-License-Identifier: GPL-3.0-or-later
+ */
+
+include <parameters.scad>
+include <components.scad>
+use <frame-piece-side.scad>
+
+module side_frame_piece_wall() {
+	// get a slice of the piece, to use it in extruding
+	projection(cut=true) rotate([0, 90, 0]) translate([frame_x/2-frame_bevel_height, 0, 0])
+		side_frame_piece();
+}
+
+module side_frame_piece_extension() {
+	// combine the original with a shrunken piece to "pull" the wall out
+	hull() {
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_extension_y) scale([0.5, 0.85, 1]) side_frame_piece_wall();
+		linear_extrude(height=frame_bevel_height) side_frame_piece_wall();
+	}
+}
+
+module extended_bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece() {
+	difference() {
+		side_frame_piece();
+		// chop off the old edge which is getting replaced with the extension
+		translate([-frame_x/2+frame_bevel_height/2, 0, 0]) cube([frame_bevel_height, frame_y, frame_z], center=true);
+	}
+	translate([-frame_x/2+frame_bevel_height*2, 0, 0]) rotate([0, -90, 0]) side_frame_piece_extension();
+}
+
+extended_bottom_left_or_right_frame_piece();

src/frame-piece-top-left-or-right.scad

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ include <parameters.scad>
 include <components.scad>
 use <frame-left.scad>
 
-module top_left_frame_piece() {
+module top_left_or_right_frame_piece() {
 	piece_width = panel_support_width+frame_wall+frame_mount_column_width;
 	intersection() {
 		left_frame();
@@ -23,4 +23,4 @@ module top_left_frame_piece() {
 	}
 }
 
-top_left_frame_piece();
+top_left_or_right_frame_piece();

src/frame-piece-top-right.scad

@@ -1,26 +0,0 @@
-/*
- * SPDX-FileCopyrightText: © 2024 Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
- * SPDX-License-Identifier: GPL-3.0-or-later
- */
-
-include <parameters.scad>
-include <components.scad>
-use <frame-right.scad>
-
-module top_right_frame_piece() {
-	piece_width = panel_support_width+frame_wall+frame_mount_column_width;
-	intersection() {
-		right_frame();
-		difference() {
-			// include the whole top wall (including mount columns)
-			translate([0, (frame_y/2)-(piece_width/2), 0]) cube([frame_x, piece_width, frame_z], center=true);
-			// ...minus the frame wall and lip on the right
-			translate([frame_x/2-frame_wall/2, 0, 0])
-				cube([frame_wall, frame_y, frame_z], center=true);
-			// ...minus a slot for the combining piece to go into
-			cube([frame_x, frame_y-(panel_support_width+frame_wall)*2, frame_z/4], center=true);
-		}
-	}
-}
-
-top_right_frame_piece();

src/parameters.scad

@@ -37,6 +37,10 @@ frame_x = 233;
 frame_y = 208;
 frame_z = 57;
 
+// degree to which the extended frame pieces stick out from the end of the frame
+frame_extension_x = 25;
+frame_extension_y = 25;
+
 // this sinks the bottom and top of the frame inward a bit, and is used to math out two shapes
 // when creating the frame box / overhang panel
 frame_bevel_height = 2;