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general assembly instructions 

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
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Brian S. Stephan 2024-03-18 18:14:30 -05:00
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Just some miscellaneous notes for any dear reader, or more likely, my own forgetful self.
## Putting a BSS Stick Together
Assembly of a stick is pretty straightforward, but there are some choices that can make it easier or harder. The
following is the most consistent way I've found to put one together. This is assuming a v4.1 or beyond stick, with two
panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
1. Prepare the frame top pieces --- `frame-piece-top-{left,right}`: this is your best shot to get auxillary buttons,
panel connectors, and the like installed, so do it now, and give them a good tighten. You shouldn't need to adjust
these again, so finish their installation while the pieces are free.
1. This of course includes decorative plates --- e.g. `misc-decorative-plate-aux-control-three-button-cluster` ---
you may choose to use. These are held to the top pieces by the buttons or component mounting screws.
2. Start the top panels --- `top-panel-(inset|overhang)-*`: you want both to get the components installed now
when it's easy, and to make sure that the overall assembly works with your components, so again get your buttons,
lever, etc., in place.
1. If you are using a button decorative plate that spans two panels --- e.g.
`src/misc-decorative-plate-dir_arc-plus-w-30mm-and-sega-2p-plus-one` --- don't tighten the buttons all the way,
as you may need some wiggle to align the panels to the frame in a later step.
2. If the above isn't the case, you can tighten all your buttons now.
3. If using a lever, don't forget the lever mount spacer --- `src/misc-lever-mount-sanwa-seimitsu` --- if you want
it, and tighten those mounting bolts now as well.
3. Create the frame box by combining your `frame-piece-*` parts together. This will be relatively stable just via
friction fit.
4. Rest the frame top-up on a desk, and put the standoffs through the holes.
5. Insert the top panels into the frame. The friction on this will probably be tight, and you may not be able to muscle
it in on your own. Get the panel posts at least partially into the frame columns, in any event. If you get all the
panels completely in, the next steps will be easier, but it's not imperative.
6. Start the bolts for the top panels. Get it so that the bolts catch the standoffs, but don't tighten them completely.
You will want some wiggle when connecting the bottom panels, which is maybe the hardest part. Depending on your bolts
and how deep into the frame you got the top panels, you might need to push the standoffs up the column in order to
catch them with the bolts.
7. At this point you have an open box with access to all your components. Do all of your wiring.
1. Tighten the buttons and etc. if you didn't in step 2.
2. TEST YOUR BOARD AND COMPONENTS NOW! You don't want to have to undo the rest of the steps for something trivial,
trust me.
8. Insert the bottom panels into the frame. This may be difficult. If you got the top panels into the frame in step 4,
and left the bolts loose in step 5, you can make the standoffs rise outside of the frame column, which makes it
easier to line up the standoffs with the bottom panel posts.
9. Drive the bottom bolts into the standoffs. You probably don't have the panels all the way into the frame, but if you
can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the
panels into the frame.
10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8
and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.
## Removing Inset Panels
As of v4.1 (or in v3), the top and bottom inset panels both insert into the frame, inside the frame "lip", meaning that