don't recommend fiddling with the initial layer height/width

doesn't seem to be any real gain in changing them, having done more
prints with those settings and with stock settings.

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
This commit is contained in:
Brian S. Stephan 2024-04-04 14:16:48 -05:00
parent e7543dceb0
commit 0513da125f
Signed by: bss
GPG Key ID: 3DE06D3180895FCB
2 changed files with 3 additions and 10 deletions

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@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the
panels into the frame.
10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8
and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.

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@ -27,15 +27,8 @@ perfect pattern, making the long lines stand out even more.
seem to have issues with filling curves and you still want to try to maximize contact with walls. Concentric is great
here if you dial it in.
Panels may have tiny gaps against the circular button cutouts; this is largely not a problem as buttom rims, decorative
plates, etc. will cover it up. However, I've had some interesting results with:
* Initial layer line width: 0.42mm (down .08mm)
* Initial layer height: 0.25mm (up .05mm)
* Initial layer pattern: concentric
These are good defaults and print awesome parts, with the only exception being the top panels, which benefit from using
a Hilbert curve initial layer pattern instead of concentric.
The concentric pattern is a good default and prints awesome parts, with the only exception being the top panels, which
benefit from using a Hilbert curve initial layer pattern instead of concentric.
## Materials