this just chops off the bottom entirely, essentially. this could be done
cleaner but this is the least disruptive change until I'm certain of it
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
mostly an aesthetic choice, but I think it helps mitigate the look of
the front relative to the need to have the case be deeper for some
levers, so (I believe) it's not an arbitrary aesthetic choice.
also maybe there's some benefit to have it be slightly less flush on the
surface, IDK
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
their cutout for the screw nut was giving too much space, which spread
them out too much on the frame walls. this should fix it, the nuts for a
Crown SDB-202 or a Seimitsu PS-14 still fit anyway
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
trying to simplify the print again a bit, I think the roundedness is one
of the causes of prints lifting
since the top is now "sharp" (not that sharp in my printing practice,
but whatever), I added a bevel to the front in an attempt to make it a
bit more comfortable
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
the bottom panel had a basin or tray to make room for taller levers,
namely the Seimitsu LSX-NOBI that I really like. per its specs, the
lever needs 43.70mm internally, and the old values were too tight (55mm
- 19mm from panels - 2mm from lever plate = 43) so the bottom panel was
arbitrarily given a sunken portion (somewhat arbitrarily 2.5mm) to
compensate at the time, because I already had frames printed.
adding 2mm to the frame Z covers the difference (57mm - 10mm - 2mm =
45mm) and thus we don't need the bottom panel hack anymore. I also
suspect the bottom panel basin was slightly affecting it structurally,
so this may help that.
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is a crazy one since I tried to fill the corners by hand.
interesting, but I don't know if I'm actually going to use it... but it
works so committing it
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
license is still the same, this just saves duplicating the terms and
standardizes with what I've been doing elsewhere, style-wise
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
50mm - 10mm of panels was fine for some levers but not enough for the
LSX-NOBI, which I personally have a number of. I can't vet every lever
in existence, but I know at least that this was a problem that is solved
by adding 5mm, which seems like a fair trade and not a huge difference
in the final product.
this also helps the fact that at 40mm internal, some buttons + wiring
harnesses were getting pretty tight, mostly relevant at the frame
connection point where the inner bottom panel isn't a basin. this should
help that too.
additionally this has us go back to the 45mm M4 standoff recommendation,
which kinda sucks because it seems like 40mm are easier to find, but as
stated in the notes, the difference is somewhat negligible if you just
use 40mm with longer bolts.
this allows for:
include <parameters.scad>
// override a variable such as
frame_z = 60;
include <components.scad>
which will let individual components tweak settings, e.g. the height of
a frame
the horizontal move sends the dir arc closer to the edge, and the
vertical move puts the top back where it used to be before moving the
rest of the layouts down
both of these choices are entirely subjective
Brian S. Stephan