200 lines
12 KiB
Markdown
200 lines
12 KiB
Markdown
# The Buildable Stick System
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Files for 3D printing an arcade stick.
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Have you ever wanted to conjure your own arcade stick out of the ether (well, plastic), or to prototype a new layout or
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design before sending it to a custom builder? Do you just love having your space filled with arcade stick enclosures,
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because you keep making different variants, colorways, and so on? Or do you simply want a good stick on the cheap, and
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know someone or a library with a 3D printer? The Buildable Stick System may be the project for you!
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**Join the project IRC channel: [#buildable-stick-system @
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Randomus](https://webirc.randomus.net/#buildable-stick-system)!**
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[OpenSCAD-based illustration of how the components for an overhang panel-based stick fit together.]
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[Photo of a completed inset panel-based stick.]
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Originally an attempt to make a couple customized STL files for the [OpenStickCommunity Fightstick
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Case](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/Fightstick%20Case), the changes ballooned to fit my
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design and became incompatible with that project's components. This should be considered a different project with some
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similar DNA, but to stress again, it could not have been done without that project as a guide star. See **Attribution**.
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## Designing
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No particular arcade stick design is prescribed by this project, instead, SCAD files are provided to choose desired
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component objects or create new ones. The OpenSCAD language is essentially a functional programming language, making it
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it easy to reuse, alter, and compose objects. If you do not see the object you would like, you can likely create it by
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starting with an existing object and constructing what you'd like with new or existing components.
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## Usage of Parts
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There are a lot of parts to pick from, but there are some structural variants to pay attention to; here's some help
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about what the types of parts are and how to use them:
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* `frames/`
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* `complete/` --- these are the four walls of the frame as one piece, in a couple variations for combining into
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larger arcade sticks. They are simple to assemble, but you have fewer modularity/customization options, and they
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are harder to print because the physics of the material cooling will probably pull the corners up. They also need
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supports, since the top and bottom of the frame both have trays for panels to go into. Use at your own risk.
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* `pieces/`
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* `box/` --- these are the same four walls (generally speaking) as in the complete frames above, broken out into
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modular pieces to print separately. Because they are separate pieces, you can mix and match colors, and you
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can lay them all face down on the print surface for better adhesion and surface patterns. There are also
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variants here, the "windowed" pieces, for doing two-tone variants and that kind of thing.
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* `extended/` --- the frame walls are pulled out to create MCZ TE-style extended sides. Rather than getting a
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box look, you get a longer slab with nice bevels. These look nice, but slightly fiddily to print (and of
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course need more material) --- watch your surface adhesion.
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* `interconnect` --- complete frames are bolted to one another, but for frame pieces, there is an interconnect
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that stands in for the joined inner wall. You need this if you are combining multiple sets of walls, e.g. for
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a two-panel-long stick.
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* `panels/`
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* `inset/` --- various panels, all of the same size, that fit into and flush with the frame, making the arcade stick
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top or bottom. These work equally well with box or extended frames, and aside from using up a bit of the space
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inside the frame, come with no downsides --- they print easily and are a pretty simple shape to tweak and remix.
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* `overhang/` --- overhang panels have their plane extending over the edge of the frame, creating a bit of a
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sandwich look. This is mostly an aesthetic choice, but they sit higher in the frame as well, the main panel being
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over/under the frame rather than within it. This extra space is useful for taller levers. The only downside to
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these is that they aren't as reusable as the inset panels, since the inset panels can go anywhere, but the
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overhang panels must be designed to not overlap with other overhang panels, so you might have to make more custom
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variants depending on where you put things.
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* `misc/`
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* Pieces that I haven't organized better (yet) --- there are decorative plates for top buttons and similar to give
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more color variance and some layers to the arcade stick, some very simple dustwashers, plates that fit rocker
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switches and the like in Neutrik D or 20mm holes, and a lever mount spacer for getting your lever shaft at the
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desired height. You don't *need* any of these, but you'll probably use a few.
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* `extras/`
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* Various experiments and things not directly related to making an arcade stick. At time of writing, there's a
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couple pieces for a little stand for the stick, solely for vanity purposes.
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Feel free to request or contribute to more objects. Additional documentation regarding assembling the stick is available
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in `docs/assembly-and-tips.md`.
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## Printing
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These items all fit on a 256mm^2 print bed; I use a Bambu Lab P1P based on what I've learned from the
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OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy, but see `docs/materials-and-printing.md` for more
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thoughts and settings based on my tinkering with prints.
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## Assembling
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What you'll need beyond these objects:
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* An arcade stick board (I recommend [TheTrain's RP2040 Advanced Breakout
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Board](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/RP2040%20Advanced%20Breakout%20Board))
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* 4 M3 8mm hex bolts to secure the PCB to a panel
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* Per frame and panel combo:
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* 4 45mm M4 hex brass standoffs (or equivalent)
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* 8 M4 countersunk hex bolts
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* Overhang panels should use 12-16mm length bolts since they are taller
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* Inset panels should probably use 8-12mm bolts --- some standoffs aren't threaded the whole way, making 16mm
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too long to go flush
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* If making the 45mm standoffs from multiple smaller ones, make sure they have enough length to take your bolts!
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* Per frame connection point (only necessary if you are using complete frames and not frame pieces):
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* 8 16mm M4 bolts
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* 8 M4 flange nuts
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* For a lever:
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* 4 12-16mm M4 countersunk hex bolts
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* 4 M4 flange nuts
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* For Neutrik D connections:
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* 2 10mm M3 hex bolts
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* 2 M3 flange nuts
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* Buttons and levers as desired
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* Wiring as required
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## Rough Costs
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This is a rough estimate of the cost to produce one of these sticks, assuming a usual 2-frame design and layout.
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Filament masses from Bambu Studio estimates, using Bambu PLA Basic, 20% gyroid infill and 3 wall loops.
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* Left and right frame: **$10.42 USD** (208.50g each, as of 2024-02-22)
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* Left and right (inset) top panels: **~$6.40 USD** (~128g each, as of 2024-02-22)
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* Left and right (non-overhang) bottom panels: **$6.80 USD** (135.99g each, as of 2024-02-22)
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* Miscellaneous mounting plates, decorative plates, etc.: **~$1.83 USD** (~73g, as of 2024-02-22)
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* 8 16mm M4 bolts to connect the frames: **$0.72 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of 2023-09-12)
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* These are only necessary if you are using the whole frames, but as a heads up, the material cost of the
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pieces-based interconnect piece costs around $1, so it's roughly a wash since that's also a frame wall.
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* 8 M4 flange nuts to connect the frames: **$0.68 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $8.50, as of 2023-09-12)
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* 4 10mm M3 bolts to connect Neutrik D plates to frames: **$0.40 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $10, as
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of 2023-09-12)
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* 4 M3 flange nuts to connect Neutrik D plates to frames: **$0.34 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $8.50,
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as of 2023-09-12)
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* 8 45mm M4 standoffs to connect panels to frames: **$2.40 USD** (you can get a pack of 10 on AliExpress for $3, as of
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2023-09-12)
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* You could 3D print these too, but you're probably better off with brass ones as they give some weight to the
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stick anyway
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* You can also use a shorter length with longer bolts, or combine multiple standoffs, if either of those yield better
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prices
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* 8 16mm M4 bolts to connect top panels to frames: **$0.72 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of
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* 8 12mm M4 bolts to connect bottom panels to frames: **$0.72 USD** (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of
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2023-09-12)
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With an enclosure coming in around $31, depending on your choices --- say, ~$30 for TheTrain's RP2040 Advanced Breakout
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Board, ~$60 for Sanwa buttons and a lever, and ~$20 for miscellaneous connectors and wiring --- you can put a
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full-featured controller with an open source foundation together for around $140. Reducing wall and infill settings
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will probably save you around $5 of material, and you can probably decide what you want to do from there.
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## Miscellany
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See the `/docs/` directory for more thoughts too scattered for this document.
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## Issues and Limitations
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This is a living repository, and as such, there are likely issues with the objects, known or otherwise.
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These issues may be fixed in the future; see `TODO.md` for details.
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## Development and Contributing
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Improvements, variants, new layouts, novel ideas, and etc. are all welcome.
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These files are suitable for previewing and rendering in OpenSCAD. They may also work in FreeCAD and perhaps other
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software, but they are developed in OpenSCAD, so YMMV otherwise.
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This project is hosted at [my personal Git site](https://git.incorporeal.org/bss/buildable-stick-system), but people are
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more likely to want to interact with [the GitHub mirror](https://github.com/bsstephan/buildable-stick-system). Feel free
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to use either.
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I'm reachable on the fediverse, over email, or on Discord, but if you're looking for an option I prefer, I maintain an
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IRC channel, `#buildable-stick-system`, on [my IRC network, Randomus](https://randomus.net/) if you would like a place
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to hang out and discuss issues and features and whatnot.
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## Attribution
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### Author and Licensing
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Written by and copyright Brian S. Stephan (<bss@incorporeal.org>).
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The Buildable Stick System is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General
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Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or (at your option) any
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later version.
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The Buildable Stick System is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the
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implied warranty of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the GNU General Public License for more
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details.
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You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License along with the Buildable Stick System. If not, see
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<https://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
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### Lineage
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Inspired by the incredible work of [TheTrain](https://github.com/TheTrainGoes) on the [OpenStickCommunity Fightstick
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Case](https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/Hardware/tree/main/Fightstick%20Case), itself based on the incredible work
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by [Dash n'Mash](https://twitter.com/Dash_xx_Mash?s=20). Original work Copyright 2023 TheTrain, [licensed under CC BY
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4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
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Made possible by the amazing efforts of [slagcoin](https://www.slagcoin.com/).
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### Distributing BSS Sticks
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Under the terms of the GPLv3, you must inform the receiver of the "object code" of their rights under the GPLv3. This is
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a bit of a gray area for physical objects, but likely applies to distribution of modified or unmodified STL, STEP, etc.
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files at a minimum. The easiest way to satisfy the GPLv3 in either situation is to provide a link to the source code
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(either the unmodified mainline project, or your copy, with modifications listed in a "prominent notice"); something
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like the below should suffice in either electronic or printed form:
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> This arcade stick is part of the Buildable Stick System, version X.Y.Z; the source code to this program is available
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> under the terms of the GNU General Public License, at [LINK].
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