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Author | SHA1 | Date |
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Brian S. Stephan | 96342f1b16 | |
Brian S. Stephan | 7bc6acfb93 | |
Brian S. Stephan | 16f41fe245 |
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@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ know someone or a library with a 3D printer? The Buildable Stick System may be t
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[OpenSCAD-based illustration of how the components for an overhang panel-based stick fit together.]
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![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v4.1.jpg)
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![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v4.2.jpg)
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[Photo of a completed inset panel-based stick.]
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@ -2,6 +2,52 @@
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Just some miscellaneous notes for any dear reader, or more likely, my own forgetful self.
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## Putting a BSS Stick Together
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Assembly of a stick is pretty straightforward, but there are some choices that can make it easier or harder. The
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following is the most consistent way I've found to put one together. This is assuming a v4.1 or beyond stick, with two
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panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
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1. Prepare the frame top pieces --- `frame-piece-top-{left,right}`: this is your best shot to get auxillary buttons,
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panel connectors, and the like installed, so do it now, and give them a good tighten. You shouldn't need to adjust
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these again, so finish their installation while the pieces are free.
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1. This of course includes decorative plates --- e.g. `misc-decorative-plate-aux-control-three-button-cluster` ---
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you may choose to use. These are held to the top pieces by the buttons or component mounting screws.
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2. Start the top panels --- `top-panel-(inset|overhang)-*`: you want both to get the components installed now
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when it's easy, and to make sure that the overall assembly works with your components, so again get your buttons,
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lever, etc., in place.
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1. If you are using a button decorative plate that spans two panels --- e.g.
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`src/misc-decorative-plate-dir_arc-plus-w-30mm-and-sega-2p-plus-one` --- don't tighten the buttons all the way,
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as you may need some wiggle to align the panels to the frame in a later step.
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2. If the above isn't the case, you can tighten all your buttons now.
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3. If using a lever, don't forget the lever mount spacer --- `src/misc-lever-mount-sanwa-seimitsu` --- if you want
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it, and tighten those mounting bolts now as well.
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3. Create the frame box by combining your `frame-piece-*` parts together. This will be relatively stable just via
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friction fit.
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4. Rest the frame top-up on a desk, and put the standoffs through the holes.
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5. Insert the top panels into the frame. The friction on this will probably be tight, and you may not be able to muscle
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it in on your own. Get the panel posts at least partially into the frame columns, in any event. If you get all the
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panels completely in, the next steps will be easier, but it's not imperative.
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6. Start the bolts for the top panels. Get it so that the bolts catch the standoffs, but don't tighten them completely.
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You will want some wiggle when connecting the bottom panels, which is maybe the hardest part. Depending on your bolts
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and how deep into the frame you got the top panels, you might need to push the standoffs up the column in order to
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catch them with the bolts.
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7. At this point you have an open box with access to all your components. Do all of your wiring.
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1. Tighten the buttons and etc. if you didn't in step 2.
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2. TEST YOUR BOARD AND COMPONENTS NOW! You don't want to have to undo the rest of the steps for something trivial,
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trust me.
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8. Insert the bottom panels into the frame. This may be difficult. If you got the top panels into the frame in step 4,
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and left the bolts loose in step 5, you can make the standoffs rise outside of the frame column, which makes it
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easier to line up the standoffs with the bottom panel posts.
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9. Drive the bottom bolts into the standoffs. You probably don't have the panels all the way into the frame, but if you
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can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the
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panels into the frame.
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10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8
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and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
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In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
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to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.
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## Removing Inset Panels
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As of v4.1 (or in v3), the top and bottom inset panels both insert into the frame, inside the frame "lip", meaning that
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 277 KiB |
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@ -13,11 +13,25 @@ not lead to a weak enclosure.
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A lot of the pieces are long and flat, so I recommend really dialing in your printer settings. The frame pieces make
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corner curling of the frame less of a problem, but you may still get it on the panels and the beveled frame pieces.
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Another thing to consider, in my experience, is the bottom layer pattern. Monotonic prints fast but creates long,
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#### Bottom Layer Notes
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Considering the visible layer (usually, the bottom layer) pattern is ideal. Monotonic prints fast but creates long,
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uniform lines that create reflection patterns on long, flat surfaces. This can be especially distracting for the top
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panels, since they're what you're looking at 90% of the time. Using a non-uniform pattern, like hilbert curve,
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eliminates this problem, but at the expense of a much longer print --- around an hour longer for an inset panel. Other
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patterns may improve beyond monotonic, but hilbert curve seems to be the gold standard.
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panels and their decorative plates, since they're what you're looking at 90% of the time, and the holes break up a
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perfect pattern, making the long lines stand out even more.
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* **Top panels:** using a non-uniform pattern reduces if not eliminates the problem of the surface catching the light,
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but for some patterns, it may come at the expense of time. Other patterns may improve beyond monotonic, but hilbert
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curve seems to be the gold standard.
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* **Circle-centric decorative plates:** don't use complex patterns like Archimedean chords on decorative plates, as they
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seem to have issues with filling curves and you still want to try to maximize contact with walls. Concentric is great
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here if you dial it in.
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Panels may have tiny gaps against the circular button cutouts; this is largely not a problem as buttom rims, decorative
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plates, etc. will cover it up. However, I've had some interesting results with:
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* Initial layer line width: 0.42mm (down .08mm)
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* Initial layer height: 0.25mm (up .05mm)
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## Materials
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