README.md

@@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ know someone or a library with a 3D printer? The Buildable Stick System may be t
 
 [OpenSCAD-based illustration of how the components for an overhang panel-based stick fit together.]
 
-![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v4.2.jpg)
+![A photo of a completed stick](docs/finished-v4.1.jpg)
 
 [Photo of a completed inset panel-based stick.]
 

docs/assembly-and-tips.md

@@ -2,52 +2,6 @@
 
 Just some miscellaneous notes for any dear reader, or more likely, my own forgetful self.
 
-## Putting a BSS Stick Together
-
-Assembly of a stick is pretty straightforward, but there are some choices that can make it easier or harder. The
-following is the most consistent way I've found to put one together. This is assuming a v4.1 or beyond stick, with two
-panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
-
-1. Prepare the frame top pieces --- `frame-piece-top-{left,right}`: this is your best shot to get auxillary buttons,
-   panel connectors, and the like installed, so do it now, and give them a good tighten. You shouldn't need to adjust
-   these again, so finish their installation while the pieces are free.
-    1. This of course includes decorative plates --- e.g. `misc-decorative-plate-aux-control-three-button-cluster` ---
-       you may choose to use. These are held to the top pieces by the buttons or component mounting screws.
-2. Start the top panels --- `top-panel-(inset|overhang)-*`: you want both to get the components installed now
-   when it's easy, and to make sure that the overall assembly works with your components, so again get your buttons,
-   lever, etc., in place.
-    1. If you are using a button decorative plate that spans two panels --- e.g.
-       `src/misc-decorative-plate-dir_arc-plus-w-30mm-and-sega-2p-plus-one` --- don't tighten the buttons all the way,
-       as you may need some wiggle to align the panels to the frame in a later step.
-    2. If the above isn't the case, you can tighten all your buttons now.
-    3. If using a lever, don't forget the lever mount spacer --- `src/misc-lever-mount-sanwa-seimitsu` --- if you want
-       it, and tighten those mounting bolts now as well.
-3. Create the frame box by combining your `frame-piece-*` parts together. This will be relatively stable just via
-   friction fit.
-4. Rest the frame top-up on a desk, and put the standoffs through the holes.
-5. Insert the top panels into the frame. The friction on this will probably be tight, and you may not be able to muscle
-   it in on your own. Get the panel posts at least partially into the frame columns, in any event. If you get all the
-   panels completely in, the next steps will be easier, but it's not imperative.
-6. Start the bolts for the top panels. Get it so that the bolts catch the standoffs, but don't tighten them completely.
-   You will want some wiggle when connecting the bottom panels, which is maybe the hardest part. Depending on your bolts
-   and how deep into the frame you got the top panels, you might need to push the standoffs up the column in order to
-   catch them with the bolts.
-7. At this point you have an open box with access to all your components. Do all of your wiring.
-    1. Tighten the buttons and etc. if you didn't in step 2.
-    2. TEST YOUR BOARD AND COMPONENTS NOW! You don't want to have to undo the rest of the steps for something trivial,
-       trust me.
-8. Insert the bottom panels into the frame. This may be difficult. If you got the top panels into the frame in step 4,
-   and left the bolts loose in step 5, you can make the standoffs rise outside of the frame column, which makes it
-   easier to line up the standoffs with the bottom panel posts.
-9. Drive the bottom bolts into the standoffs. You probably don't have the panels all the way into the frame, but if you
-   can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the
-   panels into the frame.
-10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8
-   and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
-
-In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
-to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.
-
 ## Removing Inset Panels
 
 As of v4.1 (or in v3), the top and bottom inset panels both insert into the frame, inside the frame "lip", meaning that

docs/printing-and-materials.md

@@ -13,25 +13,11 @@ not lead to a weak enclosure.
 A lot of the pieces are long and flat, so I recommend really dialing in your printer settings. The frame pieces make
 corner curling of the frame less of a problem, but you may still get it on the panels and the beveled frame pieces.
 
-#### Bottom Layer Notes
+Another thing to consider, in my experience, is the bottom layer pattern. Monotonic prints fast but creates long,
-
-Considering the visible layer (usually, the bottom layer) pattern is ideal. Monotonic prints fast but creates long,
 uniform lines that create reflection patterns on long, flat surfaces. This can be especially distracting for the top
-panels and their decorative plates, since they're what you're looking at 90% of the time, and the holes break up a
+panels, since they're what you're looking at 90% of the time. Using a non-uniform pattern, like hilbert curve,
-perfect pattern, making the long lines stand out even more.
+eliminates this problem, but at the expense of a much longer print --- around an hour longer for an inset panel. Other
-
+patterns may improve beyond monotonic, but hilbert curve seems to be the gold standard.
-* **Top panels:** using a non-uniform pattern reduces if not eliminates the problem of the surface catching the light,
-  but for some patterns, it may come at the expense of time. Other patterns may improve beyond monotonic, but hilbert
-  curve seems to be the gold standard.
-* **Circle-centric decorative plates:** don't use complex patterns like Archimedean chords on decorative plates, as they
-  seem to have issues with filling curves and you still want to try to maximize contact with walls. Concentric is great
-  here if you dial it in.
-
-Panels may have tiny gaps against the circular button cutouts; this is largely not a problem as buttom rims, decorative
-plates, etc. will cover it up. However, I've had some interesting results with:
-
-* Initial layer line width: 0.42mm (down .08mm)
-* Initial layer height: 0.25mm (up .05mm)
 
 ## Materials