in addition to renaming a number of the frame pieces, and adjusting the
pieces affected by those renames, this tweaks how the interlocking
pieces are designed by using 1/3 of the inner z of the frame rather than
dividing up the outer z. this is more consistent and might be a relevant
tweak in a later part I'm working on
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
for stability, could be decorated more in the future, that kind of
thing, but this works right now so I'll commit it before I go breaking
things
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
I didn't use this in a build, but the panels work. there might be some
misalignment with the interconnect, still, but I'm thinking of redoing
that piece anyway. I think these files are good at least.
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
the previous cutout ran the height of the interior, meaning that if you
looked straight down a top panel edge, if the fit wasn't perfect, you
could see some gaps, as the lip that the panel was resting on had gaps
in it. this eliminates that, and makes the pieces with neutrik cutouts a
bit more stable, by just shortening the cutout box and retaining a
little lip for the panels across the whole box
slightly harder to get around with buttons that way, but definitely a
net improvement
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
previous design worked fine, but it's just so tiny, a slight breeze
would sometimes knock the stick off
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is basically just a little wedge to display the stick on. I really
like using three since they're not secured to anything, but I might make
a plate to put them in next, for a bit more stability
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
so, that mount wouldn't have even been printable for anyone else anyway,
that's good, but this breaking out of a piece might as well be committed
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
the friction fit is too unreliable, and it took minimal kid aura to have
the whole thing toppling over. I will make a more stable mount at a
minimum later, so this thing goes into the TODO pile for now
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is still a very solid piece compared to the old method of a diamond
through the middle, and comes with two benefits:
1. semicircle cut out of the bottom (or top) means that wiring can be
run over rather than through, simplifying some (dis)assembly, and...
2. semicircle on the bottom, and offset from the center, should allow
for designs with a button in the center of the x-axis, rather than
having to leave room for the frame wall. this might facilitate
directional arc layouts where the buttons are combined in one shape
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
the panels had posts that would drive into the frame column (the frame
column needing to be a bit wider at the top and bottom accodringly).
this was an attempt to assist the friction fit of the whole stick in
tandem by having the panels contribute to the position and rigidity of
the frame pieces. in practice I think this didn't really contribute
anything major to that problem, and instead made the panels hard to
connect, and way harder to remove, while also having a visual defect in
that the panels were usually separated slightly due to having to fit
exactly in the frame columns.
this goes back to the old design where the base panel is a flat sheet
and the frame column holes are uniform. everything seems nicer this way,
and the overall build is simpler.
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
still playing with these a bit, but test prints yields some promising
shapes, just need to do a build with them to confirm I like it
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
replace hardcoded values creating the 45 degree bevel with the parameter
itself, so that htis is a bit more flexible in the future
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is just an aesthetic choice, but I think 2+ tone colorways will
look slightly nicer if the whole side panel color runs along the whole
side rather than stopping at the top/bottom "lip". the actual difference
is arbitrary but I'm going to toy with this for now as I suspect side
colors and panels will be more interesting than top/bottom ones
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this provides a system for interlocking frame walls as separate pieces,
rather than a whole frame box as one piece. the primary motivation for
this was to improve print quality. these pieces can be printed flat side
down, meaning improvements due to:
1. printing the box required the long, thin bottom to be the side on the
print surface, which meant shrinkage force would curl the corners
with essentially no remedy outside of bed adhesive
2. printing the box bottom up created poor circles for the button holes,
sometimes bad enough to be a visible problem, as well as making small
flow glitches to stand out (especially on non-matte PLA)
3. printing the box also required supports when the frame bottom was
inset-style, leading to an annoying post-print step
4. the outward side is now what rests on the print surface, yielding a
nicer, more consistent surface
the box modules still exist in the event someone wants them, but I
personally will probably be focused on this method going forward. this
also opens up some exciting options regarding color mixing, different
side panel shapes, and the like, so I expect to see more of these even
if the boxes don't go away (especially since these new pieces are all
derived from the boxes anyway).
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
yes I keep going back and forth on this, but I think I'm done now that I
have a better frame approach
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this makes the bottom panels have posts, now that the frame is looking
like it will be composed of parts where printing the column hole in this
fashion is not a problem
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this undoes my work to simplify the bottom of the frame and move button
holes in the frames accordingly. the top and bottom are now symmetrical
in terms of their bevel, and the buttons are centered. this will make
the print of the frame difficult again, but I have an upcoming change to
modularize the frame walls and that will print far better, so I'm
thinking this is what I want. testing ongoing
This reverts commit ed031b9308.
This reverts commit f90fc095e0.
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this has two effects:
1. thinner and thicker spacers could be printed to accommodate
preferences without having to reprint panels
2. I'm still testing this a bit, but by not having the spacer and panel
be the same (partially hollow) part, I think the lever clickiness is
a bit more pleasing to the ear
the second point is entirely arbitrary, so the first point is the real
benefit, despite me trying this because of the second
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is for the bottom panels to go flush against; without it, there's a
visible gap between the panel edge and the wall cutout space
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this just chops off the bottom entirely, essentially. this could be done
cleaner but this is the least disruptive change until I'm certain of it
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
mostly an aesthetic choice, but I think it helps mitigate the look of
the front relative to the need to have the case be deeper for some
levers, so (I believe) it's not an arbitrary aesthetic choice.
also maybe there's some benefit to have it be slightly less flush on the
surface, IDK
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
their cutout for the screw nut was giving too much space, which spread
them out too much on the frame walls. this should fix it, the nuts for a
Crown SDB-202 or a Seimitsu PS-14 still fit anyway
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
trying to simplify the print again a bit, I think the roundedness is one
of the causes of prints lifting
since the top is now "sharp" (not that sharp in my printing practice,
but whatever), I added a bevel to the front in an attempt to make it a
bit more comfortable
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
the bottom panel had a basin or tray to make room for taller levers,
namely the Seimitsu LSX-NOBI that I really like. per its specs, the
lever needs 43.70mm internally, and the old values were too tight (55mm
- 19mm from panels - 2mm from lever plate = 43) so the bottom panel was
arbitrarily given a sunken portion (somewhat arbitrarily 2.5mm) to
compensate at the time, because I already had frames printed.
adding 2mm to the frame Z covers the difference (57mm - 10mm - 2mm =
45mm) and thus we don't need the bottom panel hack anymore. I also
suspect the bottom panel basin was slightly affecting it structurally,
so this may help that.
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
this is a crazy one since I tried to fill the corners by hand.
interesting, but I don't know if I'm actually going to use it... but it
works so committing it
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
license is still the same, this just saves duplicating the terms and
standardizes with what I've been doing elsewhere, style-wise
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
50mm - 10mm of panels was fine for some levers but not enough for the
LSX-NOBI, which I personally have a number of. I can't vet every lever
in existence, but I know at least that this was a problem that is solved
by adding 5mm, which seems like a fair trade and not a huge difference
in the final product.
this also helps the fact that at 40mm internal, some buttons + wiring
harnesses were getting pretty tight, mostly relevant at the frame
connection point where the inner bottom panel isn't a basin. this should
help that too.
additionally this has us go back to the 45mm M4 standoff recommendation,
which kinda sucks because it seems like 40mm are easier to find, but as
stated in the notes, the difference is somewhat negligible if you just
use 40mm with longer bolts.
this allows for:
include <parameters.scad>
// override a variable such as
frame_z = 60;
include <components.scad>
which will let individual components tweak settings, e.g. the height of
a frame
the horizontal move sends the dir arc closer to the edge, and the
vertical move puts the top back where it used to be before moving the
rest of the layouts down
both of these choices are entirely subjective
this complicates the print, in that now printing the frame requires
supports, but by cutting in on the bottom the same way as the top, we
can center some stuff better and also make the plates a bit more
interchangeable. this also eliminates the slightly unsightly bottom
panel hanging out in the open, so overall I think it's worth the
printing complication
