buildable-stick-system/docs/assembly-and-tips.md

Assembly and Tips

Just some miscellaneous notes for any dear reader, or more likely, my own forgetful self.

Putting a BSS Stick Together

Assembly of a stick is pretty straightforward, but there are some choices that can make it easier or harder. The following is the most consistent way I've found to put one together. This is assuming a v4.1 or beyond stick, with two panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.

1. Prepare the frame top pieces --- frame-piece-top-{left,right}: this is your best shot to get auxillary buttons, panel connectors, and the like installed, so do it now, and give them a good tighten. You shouldn't need to adjust these again, so finish their installation while the pieces are free.
   1. This of course includes decorative plates --- e.g. misc-decorative-plate-aux-control-three-button-cluster --- you may choose to use. These are held to the top pieces by the buttons or component mounting screws.
2. Start the top panels --- top-panel-(inset|overhang)-*: you want both to get the components installed now when it's easy, and to make sure that the overall assembly works with your components, so again get your buttons, lever, etc., in place.
   1. If you are using a button decorative plate that spans two panels --- e.g. src/misc-decorative-plate-dir_arc-plus-w-30mm-and-sega-2p-plus-one --- don't tighten the buttons all the way, as you may need some wiggle to align the panels to the frame in a later step.
   2. If the above isn't the case, you can tighten all your buttons now.
   3. If using a lever, don't forget the lever mount spacer --- src/misc-lever-mount-sanwa-seimitsu --- if you want it, and tighten those mounting bolts now as well.
3. Create the frame box by combining your frame-piece-* parts together. This will be relatively stable just via friction fit.
4. Rest the frame top-up on a desk, and put the standoffs through the holes.
5. Insert the top panels into the frame. The friction on this will probably be tight, and you may not be able to muscle it in on your own. Get the panel posts at least partially into the frame columns, in any event. If you get all the panels completely in, the next steps will be easier, but it's not imperative.
6. Start the bolts for the top panels. Get it so that the bolts catch the standoffs, but don't tighten them completely. You will want some wiggle when connecting the bottom panels, which is maybe the hardest part. Depending on your bolts and how deep into the frame you got the top panels, you might need to push the standoffs up the column in order to catch them with the bolts.
7. At this point you have an open box with access to all your components. Do all of your wiring.
   1. Tighten the buttons and etc. if you didn't in step 2.
   2. TEST YOUR BOARD AND COMPONENTS NOW! You don't want to have to undo the rest of the steps for something trivial, trust me.
8. Insert the bottom panels into the frame. This may be difficult. If you got the top panels into the frame in step 4, and left the bolts loose in step 5, you can make the standoffs rise outside of the frame column, which makes it easier to line up the standoffs with the bottom panel posts.
9. Drive the bottom bolts into the standoffs. You probably don't have the panels all the way into the frame, but if you can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the panels into the frame.
10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8 and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.

In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.

Removing Inset Panels

As of v4.1 (or in v3), the top and bottom inset panels both insert into the frame, inside the frame "lip", meaning that when everything is put together, they create a flush surface (more or less). This can make them hard to get out, as you can't grab anything to get any leverage, and especially with v4.1, the plastic posts to aid the friction fit make it even harder to muscle out --- in fact, even if you could get an edge and start yanking, you'd probably just break some of the plastic.

You can instead use the reverse side and the hex standoffs to push a panel out, as so:

1. Loosen, or completely remove, the hex bolts for the panel you would like to remove.
2. Flip the stick over, and remove the hex bolts on the opposite side.
3. Screw in longer bolts, or anything else that'll fit into the hole without going flush against the panel.
4. Push the long bolts in, thus pushing the standoffs, thus pushing the desired panel out from within.
5. You may have to even get a mallet and tap on a bolt, occasionally, as everything can be pretty tight.