14 Commits

Author SHA1 Message Date
eaaa92004f
scoot the 3 aux buttons a bit closer to the edge
this is just to line up with the frame/panel mount column a bit better
and remove some weird geometry

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-06-18 13:58:55 -05:00
390df34f2b
frames: re-bevel the bottom and top, center buttons
this undoes my work to simplify the bottom of the frame and move button
holes in the frames accordingly. the top and bottom are now symmetrical
in terms of their bevel, and the buttons are centered. this will make
the print of the frame difficult again, but I have an upcoming change to
modularize the frame walls and that will print far better, so I'm
thinking this is what I want. testing ongoing

This reverts commit ed031b9308b062b8900a40851dafac5f18aaa535.
This reverts commit f90fc095e04b46073f33681b6cbe94b3ac421256.

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-03-01 10:01:50 -06:00
ed031b9308
create 2mm of additional frame bottom
this is for the bottom panels to go flush against; without it, there's a
visible gap between the panel edge and the wall cutout space

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-02-22 13:40:01 -06:00
f90fc095e0
remove the bottom bevel to try to simplify the print
this just chops off the bottom entirely, essentially. this could be done
cleaner but this is the least disruptive change until I'm certain of it

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-02-18 12:36:51 -06:00
abc4577173
bevel the bottom of the frame
mostly an aesthetic choice, but I think it helps mitigate the look of
the front relative to the need to have the case be deeper for some
levers, so (I believe) it's not an arbitrary aesthetic choice.

also maybe there's some benefit to have it be slightly less flush on the
surface, IDK

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-02-16 12:25:17 -06:00
7b2289624e
fix an old math mistake with the spacing of 24mm aux buttons
their cutout for the screw nut was giving too much space, which spread
them out too much on the frame walls. this should fix it, the nuts for a
Crown SDB-202 or a Seimitsu PS-14 still fit anyway

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-02-15 15:32:02 -06:00
97f69b9332
update SPDX headers in source files
license is still the same, this just saves duplicating the terms and
standardizes with what I've been doing elsewhere, style-wise

Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
2024-01-02 15:08:01 -06:00
99b03a3b48
parameterize the distance the neutrik holes are from center 2023-12-13 13:33:14 -06:00
62c804ed35
group the three 24mm buttons used in frames in one component
this is a bit cleaner/DRY, and also lets me experiment with a decorative
plate easily
2023-11-25 23:52:20 -06:00
ae40fd7289
break out tweakable parameters into a separate file
this allows for:

include <parameters.scad>
// override a variable such as
frame_z = 60;
include <components.scad>

which will let individual components tweak settings, e.g. the height of
a frame
2023-11-20 14:25:27 -06:00
fbf0dc6896
allow the frame bottom to take insets/raised panels too
this complicates the print, in that now printing the frame requires
supports, but by cutting in on the bottom the same way as the top, we
can center some stuff better and also make the plates a bit more
interchangeable. this also eliminates the slightly unsightly bottom
panel hanging out in the open, so overall I think it's worth the
printing complication
2023-11-02 16:34:08 -05:00
aa633584e5
don't mirror, mostly duplicate the left frame components into right frame
doing a naive mirror meant the neutrik D mount holes were in the wrong
spot. fine for a 20mm + plate mount, but not good for any actual
component
2023-09-12 23:40:51 -05:00
9f98f0cfa7
rename project before sharing 2023-08-24 22:49:34 -05:00
6064884a89
account for 24mm buttons in the frame tops 2023-08-19 17:51:01 -05:00