updates to the README for frame piece reorg and BSS AE
Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
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							@ -40,21 +40,17 @@ about what the types of parts are and how to use them:
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      larger arcade sticks. They are simple to assemble, but you have fewer modularity/customization options, and they
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      are harder to print because the physics of the material cooling will probably pull the corners up. They also need
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      supports, since the top and bottom of the frame both have trays for panels to go into. Use at your own risk.
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    * `pieces/`
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        * `box/` --- these are the same four walls (generally speaking) as in the complete frames above, broken out into
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          modular pieces to print separately. Because they are separate pieces, you can mix and match colors, and you
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          can lay them all face down on the print surface for better adhesion and surface patterns. There are also
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          variants here, the "windowed" pieces, for doing two-tone variants and that kind of thing.
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        * `extended/` --- the frame walls are pulled out to create MCZ TE-style extended sides. Rather than getting a
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          box look, you get a longer slab with nice bevels. These look nice, but slightly fiddily to print (and of
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          course need more material) --- watch your surface adhesion.
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        * `interconnect` --- complete frames are bolted to one another, but for frame pieces, there is an interconnect
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          that stands in for the joined inner wall. You need this if you are combining multiple sets of walls, e.g. for
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          a two-panel-long stick.
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    * `pieces/` these are the same four walls (generally speaking) as in the complete frames above, broken out into
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      modular pieces to print separately. Because they are separate pieces, you can mix and match colors, and you can
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      lay them all face down on the print surface for better adhesion and surface patterns. There are also variants
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      here, the "windowed" pieces, for doing two-tone variants and that kind of thing. There are also frame walls pulled
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      out to create MCZ TE-style extended sides. There is an interconnect that stands in for the joined inner wall
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      between boxes of the overall unit. You need this if you are combining multiple sets of walls, e.g. for a
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      two-panel-long stick.
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* `panels/`
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    * `inset/` --- various panels, all of the same size, that fit into and flush with the frame, making the arcade stick
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      top or bottom. These work equally well with box or extended frames, and aside from using up a bit of the space
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      inside the frame, come with no downsides --- they print easily and are a pretty simple shape to tweak and remix.
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      top or bottom. Aside from using up a bit of the space for components inside the frame, come with no downsides ---
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      they print easily and are a pretty simple shape to tweak and remix.
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    * `overhang/` --- overhang panels have their plane extending over the edge of the frame, creating a bit of a
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      sandwich look. This is mostly an aesthetic choice, but they sit higher in the frame as well, the main panel being
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      over/under the frame rather than within it. This extra space is useful for taller levers. The only downside to
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@ -69,6 +65,8 @@ about what the types of parts are and how to use them:
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* `extras/`
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    * Various experiments and things not directly related to making an arcade stick. At time of writing, there's a
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      couple pieces for a little stand for the stick, solely for vanity purposes.
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        * `bss-ae/` --- these are pieces for an arcade control panel that fits on the Qanba 2009. See the docs in that
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          directory for details.
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Feel free to request or contribute to more objects. Additional documentation regarding assembling the stick is available
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in `docs/assembly-and-tips.md`.
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@ -76,7 +74,7 @@ in `docs/assembly-and-tips.md`.
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## Printing
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These items all fit on a 256mm^2 print bed; I use a Bambu Lab P1P based on what I've learned from the
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OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy, but see `docs/materials-and-printing.md` for more
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OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy, but see `docs/printing-and-materials.md` for more
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thoughts and settings based on my tinkering with prints.
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## Assembling
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