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some minor documentation updates

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Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
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Brian S. Stephan 2024-06-21 08:39:53 -05:00
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10
README.md
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@ -35,16 +35,16 @@ about what the types of parts are and how to use them:
* `frames/`
* `complete/` --- these are the four walls of the frame as one piece, in a couple variations for combining into
larger arcade sticks. They are simple to assemble, but you have fewer modularity/customization options, and they
are harder to print because the physics of the material cooling will probably pull the corners up. Use at your own
risk.
are harder to print because the physics of the material cooling will probably pull the corners up. They also need
supports, since the face and back of the frame both have trays for panels to go into. Use at your own risk.
* `pieces/`
* `box/` --- these are the same four walls (generally speaking) as in the complete frames above, broken out into
modular faces to print separately. Because they are separate pieces, you can mix and match colors, and you can
lay them all face down on the print surface for better adhesion and surface patterns. There are also variants
here, the "windowed" pieces, for doing two-tone variants and that kind of thing.
* `extended/` --- the frame walls are pulled out to create MCZ TE-style extended sides/bottom. Rather than
getting a box look, you get a longer slab. These look nice, but slightly fiddily to print (and of course need
more material) --- watch your surface adhesion.
getting a box look, you get a longer slab with nice bevels. These look nice, but slightly fiddily to print
(and of course need more material) --- watch your surface adhesion.
* `interconnect` --- complete frames are bolted to one another, but for frame pieces, there is an interconnect
that stands in for the joined inner wall. You need this if you are combining multiple sets of walls, e.g. for
a two-panel-long stick.
@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ What you'll need beyond these objects:
* Inset plates should probably use 8-12mm bolts --- some standoffs aren't threaded the whole way, making 16mm
too long to go flush
* If making the 45mm standoffs from multiple smaller ones, make sure they have enough length to take your bolts!
* Per frame connection point:
* Per frame connection point (only necessary if you are using complete frames and not frame pieces):
* 8 16mm M4 bolts
* 8 M4 flange nuts
* For a lever:

2
TODO.md
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@ -4,4 +4,4 @@ Notes for "next time".
## v4.x
* Engraving some cosmetic stuff? Or maybe a place to mount other plates?
* Engraving some cosmetic stuff? Or maybe a place to mount other plates on the face?

54
docs/README-objects.md
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@ -6,26 +6,40 @@ Files for 3D printing an arcade stick.
The following notes document the objects in the Buildable Stick System and how you can use them:
* `bottom-panel-inset`: a simple solid panel that fits into the bottom of a frame box.
* `bottom-panel-overhang-*`: solid panels whose base fits into the bottom of a frame box, but have a longer sheet that
extends beyond the frame, creating a sandwich kind of look; the various forms hang over more or less of the frame,
expecting it will be connected to other frames.
* `frame-{left,middle,right,solo}`: the core frame of the stick, these are complete boxes; since they are long and
narrow, and need supports to print the space for the insets, these may be difficult to print nicely.
* `frame-piece-*`: the core frame broken up by individual faces, which are easier to print and essentially just as
sturdy.
* `frame-piece-*-extended*`: frame pieces that have been stretched out beyond the normal frame dimensions in order to
make a nice bevel on the sides and/or bottom; this, interestingly, tends to make the stick look a bit thinner than if
it was just a simple box.
* `misc-decorative-plate-*`: things you can print to snazz up face buttons mounting, auxillary button points, etc..
* `misc-dustwasher-*`: simple dustwashers for levers.
* `misc-lever-mount-*`: lever mounts of various shapes and depths to get the desired lever height when mounting a lever
to a panel (with the appropriate cutouts).
* `misc-neutrik-*`: like the decorative plates, but these are a bit more necessary by their design.
* `misc-rocker-*`: rocker SPDT switches don't have mounting holes, this allows you to attach them to the frame.
* `top-panel-inset-*`: various lever and/or button layouts for using as the face(s) of a stick.
* `top-panel-overhang-`: same idea as the inset top panels, but overhung over the frame to make the sandwich look; these
also leave a bit more space inside the frame, which might accommodate a taller lever.
* `frames/`
* `complete/` --- these are the four walls of the frame as one piece, in a couple variations for combining into
larger arcade sticks. They are simple to assemble, but you have fewer modularity/customization options, and they
are harder to print because the physics of the material cooling will probably pull the corners up. They also need
supports, since the face and back of the frame both have trays for panels to go into. Use at your own risk.
* `pieces/`
* `box/` --- these are the same four walls (generally speaking) as in the complete frames above, broken out into
modular faces to print separately. Because they are separate pieces, you can mix and match colors, and you can
lay them all face down on the print surface for better adhesion and surface patterns. There are also variants
here, the "windowed" pieces, for doing two-tone variants and that kind of thing.
* `extended/` --- the frame walls are pulled out to create MCZ TE-style extended sides/bottom. Rather than
getting a box look, you get a longer slab with nice bevels. These look nice, but slightly fiddily to print
(and of course need more material) --- watch your surface adhesion.
* `interconnect` --- complete frames are bolted to one another, but for frame pieces, there is an interconnect
that stands in for the joined inner wall. You need this if you are combining multiple sets of walls, e.g. for
a two-panel-long stick.
* `panels/`
* `inset/` --- various panels, all of the same size, that fit into and flush with the frame, making the arcade stick
face or back. These work equally well with box or extended frames, and aside from using up a bit of the space
inside the frame, come with no downsides --- they print easily and are a pretty simple shape to tweak and remix.
* `overhang/` --- overhang panels have their face extending over the edge of the frame, creating a bit of a sandwich
look. This is mostly an aesthetic choice, but they sit higher in the frame as well, the main panel being
over/under the frame rather than within it. This extra space is useful for taller levers. The only downside to
these is that they aren't as reusable as the inset panels, since the inset panels can go anywhere, but the
overhang panels must be designed to not overlap with other overhang panels, so you might have to make more custom
variants depending on where you put things.
* `misc/`
* Pieces that I haven't organized better (yet) --- there are decorative plates for face buttons or top buttons to
give more color variance and some layers to the arcade stick, some very simple dustwashers, plates that fit rocker
switches and the like in Neutrik D or 20mm holes, and a lever mount spacer for getting your lever shaft at the
desired height. You don't *need* any of these, but you'll probably use a few.
* `extras/`
* Various experiments and things not directly related to making an arcade stick. At time of writing, there's a
couple pieces for a little stand for the stick, solely for vanity purposes.
Feel free to request or contribute to more objects, see the links to Git repos below.