don't recommend fiddling with the initial layer height/width
doesn't seem to be any real gain in changing them, having done more prints with those settings and with stock settings. Signed-off-by: Brian S. Stephan <bss@incorporeal.org>
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				@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ panels to make a long standard stick, and the frame made of pieces.
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   can at least get the standoffs in the posts, you can catch them with the bottom bolts, and then let them guide the
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   panels into the frame.
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10. Tighten all the bolts. If you didn't get the top panels flush in step 4, you can apply the same logic as in step 8
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   and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
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    and tighten the bolts to guide the panels into the frame.
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In the end, this should be extremely sturdy. None of the frame or panels should be loose at all, and you should be able
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to move, flip, gently toss, etc. the stick without anything moving or feeling loose.
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@ -27,15 +27,8 @@ perfect pattern, making the long lines stand out even more.
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  seem to have issues with filling curves and you still want to try to maximize contact with walls. Concentric is great
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  here if you dial it in.
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Panels may have tiny gaps against the circular button cutouts; this is largely not a problem as buttom rims, decorative
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plates, etc. will cover it up. However, I've had some interesting results with:
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* Initial layer line width: 0.42mm (down .08mm)
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* Initial layer height: 0.25mm (up .05mm)
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* Initial layer pattern: concentric
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These are good defaults and print awesome parts, with the only exception being the top panels, which benefit from using
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a Hilbert curve initial layer pattern instead of concentric.
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The concentric pattern is a good default and prints awesome parts, with the only exception being the top panels, which
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benefit from using a Hilbert curve initial layer pattern instead of concentric.
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## Materials
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